The Southern Grill is nestled in a sea of office buildings and parking garages, underneath the noisy bucking and squealing of the Jacksonville Skyway, looking a little out of place. When you check Google’s metrics for the restaurant, it appears to be near empty every hour of the day, with the exception of a huge twelve o’clock lunch rush on weekdays. If seemingly all the employees of the towering office buildings surrounding the southern grill flock there every workday , then there surely must be some reason to come back each day beyond convenience.
I found that reason to be Entrées. I ordered the Philly steak panini, per the waitresses recommendation, with a side of macaroni and cheese, and my girlfriend who came along for the review, Kara, ordered a fried chicken melt with a side of fries. One thing the Southern grill does right is cheese, both our meals were doused in a gooey, white American, that escalated both of our dishes to the next level of cholesterol raising greatness. The cheese was well seasoned and the perfect consistency, and that paired with the crisp pressed bread on my sandwich, and the Texas toast on the chicken melt. My sandwich had crisp, green peppers and onions nestled throughout, held secure by a solid foundation of cheese. The Meats on each sandwich were almost overshadowed by the cheese level, but I didnt seem to mind too much. The meat was defintely there, adding a satisfying texture and heartiness to each bite, but little more.
The sides, on the other hand, were lacking in flavor, with the macaroni tasting like an unsalted Bob Evan microwave dish, and the fries tasting like they were fresh out of whatever frozen bag they came in. It seemed like the sides were more of an afterthought to the San Marco Grille. They certainly weren't disgusting, but they didn't bring anything unique to the experience. We finished the meal off on a high note, by splitting a saran wrapped brownie offered at the counter, which was a satisfying to the southern, simple meal we had eaten. The brownie was incredibly soft and moist, and seemed very fresh. It was inexplicably chocolate frosted on both sides, which made for a messy eat, but an enjoyable one.
I asked my review partner Kara for her opinion on the meal, and she replied that “The cheese to meat ratio was spot on, and they made sure the cheese stayed melted and soft even after the sandwich wasn't hot anymore.” Whatever the Southern grill lacked in flavor, they made up for with their cheese.
The location of this restaurant was something unexpectedly important in how it made me feel. We sat outside and enjoyed the screeching skyway and sounds of horns and tires echoing between the buildings, surrounded by grey concrete and passersby cigarette smoke. It was a profoundly urban experience, and it reminded me of something I often forget. That Jacksonville is a city, not just loosely connected neighborhoods, split up by 20 minute drives on JTB or I-95. The Urban Core lives up to its name here, and demonstrated that Jacksonville deserves a spot as one of the premier cities in Florida. The inside harbored a dimly lit bar, half full of office workers drinking after they got out of work. I heard a discussion about construction on the Veterans Arena, how well the Jax Icemen are doing, and some plans to watch the next sharks game. The Southern Grill captured modern Jacksonville’s aura and spirit better than most restaurants could. There was nothing flashy or special other than a casual pride to be a part of this city and a part of the beating heart that defines what it means to be a Jacksonville local. The fact that it wasn't a secret culinary masterpiece of a restaurant, and instead a mediocre meeting place that fit everyone's needs just fine, felt more honest than any bistro or gastropub meant to represent Jacksonville's heart and soul.
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